In August 2024, I did a quick 4-day trip across the pond to explore Edinburgh and the Scottish Highlands! It was a jam-packed few days filled with adventure, good eats, and spectacular views. As a plus size traveler, there are a few things to consider before traveling to Scotland, but overall I found it very accessible. Here is my top tips for plus size travel in Scotland!
Be prepared for hills and stairs!
Maybe this was poor planning on my end, but I didn’t realize just how hilly Edinburgh is! It is, after all, a city built on several extinct volcanic craters. I should have known. During the 16th century, the city (the part now known as the Old Town) was surrounded by the Flodden Wall to protect the city from attacks. Because of the wall, they couldn’t build the city out, so they had to build up. You’ll find what are called “high streets” and “low streets” – streets literally built on top of and below each other. If you’re looking at a map, it may appear that streets cross, but they’re actually several stories apart. Strange, I know. Because of this, these streets are often connected by steep staircases. Be prepared that walking to and from places may take a little extra time to account for all of the hills and stairs!
Book a central hotel
Edinburgh is filled with a wide range of hotels. Everything from hostels (to save some money), to 5 star hotels (looking at you The Balmoral). Booking a hotel that is centrally-located is probably my most practical tip for plus size travel in Scotland. I stayed at the ibis Edinburgh Centre South Bridge which was just a couple of blocks from the middle of the Royal Mile. The location was ideal and it was a perfect home base at a reasonable price. I loved being only a 10-15 minute walk away from a lot of the top attractions. While staying further out may save you some money on the nightly rate, you’ll end up paying that money in Ubers (or blisters on your feet from the long walks). Staying central is the way to go!
Dress in layers
Scotland is famous for their weather- in not necessarily the best ways! When I visited in late-August, my weather app showed temperatures in the low 60’s and 0% chance of rain each day. So I trusted it (spoiler: that was a mistake!). The weather here can change on a dime, so it’s best to be prepared for as much as possible. On day 1, I got caught in a downpour (albeit, a quick one) without a jacket or umbrella. The next day, the sun was shining and I was roasting in my sweater so had to make a mid-day pit stop back to the hotel to change into a tee shirt. And when I took a day trip to the highlands, the temperatures varied quite a bit as we rolled in and out of the mountains. Dress in layers and try to be prepared for anything!
Utilize Uber
I was pleasantly surprised to find that Uber in Edinburgh was not only available, but an optimal way to get around! Since Edinburgh (and Scotland as a whole) is very hilly, this is probably one of my top tips for plus size travel in Scotland. While the street tram in Edinburgh is pretty easy to use, it’s only one line and the stops may be far from where you’re trying to go. There also are public busses, but I found them a little confusing (tbh, I didn’t put in a lot of work trying to figure them out though). Uber was really affordable and readily available any time I needed a ride!
Walking the Royal Mile
Edinburgh’s most famous street and the heartbeat of the city: The Royal Mile! The Royal Mile is the name of the street that connects the Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. It’s a little touristy, but hey- we’re tourists! You’ll find plenty of souvenir shops and also places to get authentic (higher quality) souvenirs to take home like whiskey, cashmere, or homemade Scottish goods! The Royal Mile though is, not surprisingly, one giant hill. Walking The Royal Mile is best done starting at the Edinburgh Castle down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. This is all downhill and a much easier, more enjoyable stroll. When you get to the end, you can either jump on a public bus or grab an Uber back.
Visiting Calton Hill
When in Edinburgh, there is no better way to end a day than by catching the sunset atop Calton Hill. This hill in the center of town offers 360 degree views of the city and is so worth the trek to the top. There are two ways to reach the summit: a short, steep staircase, or a longer more gradual path. I took the stairs up (before I realized there were other options!), but regretted it about half way through. They were no joke! The steps to the top of the hill are located here. Instead, when you enter here, instead of turning right to go up the stairs, continue straight. This path will be longer, but a much easier path to the summit. Just allow yourself a little more time to do so!
Once at the top, stroll over near the Dugald Stewart Monument for views of the Old Town, the Scot Monument, Waverly clock tower, and even the Edinburgh Castle in the distance. Make your way to the opposite side of the hill to the North Viewpoint, where people will sit on the hill and watch the sun set over the city. The vibes were 10/10 and it was the absolute perfect way to end a busy day!
Day tours
While I was based in Edinburgh on my trip, I booked a day tour to the Scottish Highlands. I would still give the day a 10/10, but there were a few drawbacks as a plus size traveler. We were in a sprinter van that had two seats on one side, and then single seats on the other. I sat in a single seat but it was tight. The seatbelt clicked, but it dug into my thigh and made for an uncomfortable 8 hour round-trip ride! If you can, try to book a day tour that isn’t completely sold out. Or book with a tour company that uses a larger bus. I would have been much more comfortable in a seat where I could spread out a little more. While I loved the personalization of a small tour, I would have been more comfortable with a little more space!
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